From :
2004 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, October 17, 2004

“The Washington landscape has witnessed a burst of Thai restaurants opening this year, and while some of them are very good and quite handsome, I always find myself comparing the new ones against this benchmark. Thai Square isn’t much to look at, just four walls and a few travel-poster pictures, and the service, while fast and efficient, leans toward the matter-of-fact. But there’s a reason so many Thais fill the seats: The cooking is true to its roots — hot when it should be, never too sweet, always fresh. Think all larb gai is created equal? The jumble of ground chicken, cool lettuce and searing chilies here stands apart from the crowd. “The top of my head tingles!” my friend says — then returns for more pleasure-pain. Fish cakes are lightly bouncy, shot through with herbs and embellished with a fine peanut-cucumber sauce. Pale green curry practically pulses with heat, but it’s not so blazing that you can’t also enjoy the interplay of coconut milk, purple basil and ribbons of yellow vegetable. The specials reveal even more prizes, maybe whole rockfish in a thick sauce of tamarind and red chilies that plays fruity off fire. With food like this, I don’t need scenery.”

i went here on saturday night with natasha..

Tags: 2004 Fall Dining Guide, arlington, restaurant, review, Washington Post Magazine